came the [338] settlements; and a succession of these small fields and stone fences for several miles exasperated us to a degree which made us indifferent to the consequences. We determined then to strike south into the heart of the city, and play our game boldly.

Of all nations, the Mexicans are most devoted to bells, to which they attach much superstition, their cities being filled with them, and of which they make a perpetual use. Their constant ringing during our peregrination in the neighbourhood told us how the city lay, and we had no difficulty in striking through its centre. By Indian file we passed up one street and down another, under our broadbrim ranchero hats, with our shoulders and knapsacks covered with our darkly-variegated blankets, which we had been careful in procuring before leaving the castle. To the frequent "quien viva" of the sentinels we made no reply, but kept our course in silence. It appeared to us that there were more dogs in this town than we had ever before seen at one place; and though they barked in an angry tone, as if they knew us to be strangers, yet they kept at a respectful distance from our sapotes.

We had been reconnoitring the city for three hours, and as daylight drew near we determined to go a short distance south and select a lodging for the next day, which would overlook the whole place. In the southern suburb of the town we found a position admirably suited to our views. It was an insulated conical mound, such as are frequently seen [339] in the valleys of Mexico, rising out of this valley to several hundred feet, and covered with high weeds and brush. Upon the apex of this cone we took our lodging, not judging, from the appearance of the weeds, that it was often ascended. Here, in our wet clothes and blankets - for we had just had the benefit of a cold, drenching rain - we lay down upon the wet ground, as close together as we could get, and spread our wet blankets over us, covering us entirely up. The steam which our respiration created under the wet blankets soon warmed us, and the greatest distress we experienced was in turning over; for in laying together as compact as three spoons, this had to be done at one time, and by common consent. In these turnings the cold air would rush in, and the change it would produce in our feelings, if not a good illustration of the collapsing of a steam boiler, explained the philosophy of some of the northern nations wetting their coverings to keep them warm at night.

We remained in this situation until ten o'clock next day, when we rose to take our position to survey the city below. Here we studied its geography until night, many persons passing near the foot of the hill, but no one ascending it, As soon as it was dark we started into the city, and coming to a dilapidated church upon the right of the street, around which grew some high weeds, Reese and myself seated ourselves by the side of the wall in the weeds, and sent Dan ahead. He was to pick up some [340] common looking Mexican, and give him a real to